Friday, May 10, 2024

Guide to Skirafting Logistics

 



    Skirafting is still underdeveloped in comparison to Bikerafting, but it is legal in wilderness areas (US) and sports the additional advantage of not completely ruining both constituent sports.
   
Mike Coyle on the Talkeetna River

    The 3 main issues I've consistently dealt with across a dozen or so multiday skirafting trips are addressed in this post:
           -Loading Skis into Packrafts
           -Gear Selection
           -Timing and Route selection


Loading Skis into Packrafts

Click for Video version of this discussion:

    Boat mode



    I've had good luck paddling with skis inside the tubes of just about every Alpacka model with the exception of the Refuge. A Gnarwhal (12" tube diamater) can swallow almost any matched pair of skis with low profile heels. Any larger diameter craft will have no problem with skis - A Forager (13"+ tube diameter) is shown above handling a bundle of 5(!) pairs of AT skis.

    I spend almost all of my skirafting time in two niche boats - the Refuge (lightest Whitewater capable packraft) and the Valkyrie (most Whitewater capable packraft). The rigging required for these two craft illustrates many of the important principles of safe ski mounting. The Refuge is too short/low volume to handle anything other than skimo race skis inside and the lighter weight construction is more damage-susceptible, so I mount them on the Deck

Refuge with a Glacier Harness-turned-3 oz Backband-Thigh Strap combo. 
Skis are placed to minimize disruption of Paddle strokes.

    For any packraft loading configuration I prefer to have my toe pieces (dis)mounted on inserts, otherwise it is difficult to avoid painful and annoying interference with paddle strokes. 

Bindings removed and ski placed to avoid interference with power stroke

    I also use removeable heel pieces mounted on adjustment plates, such as the black diamond helio 200. If you can't justify mounting bindings on inserts, then placing them in front or behind your power stroke hand range is best. Deck-mounted skis may require gluing on additional custom attachments.

Skis shifted towards the stern to minimize interference with toe pieces.
If you mount bases down take care to armor ski edges with masking tape.
Ski straps are likely to be more resilient than webbing connections if your boat gets tossed in a hole.



    The Valkyrie is the packraft that requires the greatest sensitivity for loading skis inside since it sports the smallest tube diameter (<9"). If your skis have removeable bindings, spoon them and cover the tips and tails with ski socks or gloves. If you can only remove your heels, line edges with masking tape and position in each side tube with the toes directly facing your hips (contact with your hips is likely). Or, in larger tube diameter packrafts match the skis on one side.  There is plenty of room to strap items like ski poles, probe, soft items, onto the outside / middle half of the base. The contact points between the outside of the boat tube and your skis will be just the tips and tails. I like to strap some low profile soft parts onto these two spots, cradling the base and bottom side/edge of the tail and tip so any rock contact will have some give.


    Obviously, every boat-ski-binding combination is a little different, but for reference I can fit my 188 La Sportiva Vapor Sveltes inside a Valkyrie (more rocker helps). Matched 186's with Dynafit speed radical bindings can fit inside a small Gnarwhal.

    I welcome any input from experience with loading split boards. I've heard they can fit inside a Wolverine (<11" tube diameter).

   I've always had luck with my ski boots shoved into the nose of the boat. Scarpa boots with liners removed can fit into pretty small tubes since the boot upper swivels in-line with the boot sole. As a bonus, Intuition liners are crazy warm for paddling in meltwater if the traction doesn't compromise your safety.




    Other hard and sharp parts like axe, crampons, stove, etc. are safest living in the center of your stern under the zipper, safely inside of your backpack.

    Even with these precautions you still may damage your packraft (in an easily repairable way). I've received minor tube damage on two out of twelve adventures, though partners are batting around 0.500.

    Ski Mode


        I won't say much here - many of the tried and true principles associated with towing traditional pulks apply. Make sure the load inside the boat is far enough forwards or the tracking will become more unstable. I have seen hull damage caused by contact with skis edges on descents, so managing that is also critical.


    I've towed packrafts across hundreds of miles of snow and ice and have not experienced any damage or wear from doing so. I've heard reports to the contrary but am suspicious of the circumstances. Obviously, if you encounter ice or snow with embedded rocky debris (anything that would damage or wear your ski edges and bases), it's time to pack up your boat. I see no reason to line or armor your packraft when towing it on ice or snow, unless its purpose is to aid tracking or control on descents.

    Foot Mode
        Good luck!

Gear Selection/Suggestions

    It is easy to get absolutely crushed by the full weight of multidiscipline ultralight equipment. Below is an incomplete list of (mostly expensive) very lightweight equipment that I've used to get my skirafting baseweight as low as 32 lbs.

Paddling Gear
    Alpacka Refuge
    Aquabound Whiskey Paddle 
        OR Werner Corryvreckan (larger blade area)
    Petzl Sirocco Helmet (if appropriate) plus helmet liner
    Sockdolager ultralight uninsulated pogies 
        OR Stohlquist toaster neoprene pogies
    MTI Journey type III pfd (doubles as a comfortable snowcamp seat/foot rest)
        OR Astral Layla (lightest type V)
    Army surplus insulated liner pants (very cheap, lightweight and warm for drysuit or camp)
    Old Alpacka ultralight drysuit (if you can find one)
        OR Kokatat Hydrus front Entry drysuit
    
Snow Camping Gear
    Black Diamond Betalite shelter (sets up with Paddles)
    MSR reactor stove
    Thermarest Xtherm sleeping pad
    Western Mountaineering jackets, pants and booties.
    
Ski Gear
    Arva carbon race probe
    Arva Ultra Carbon shovel
    Black Diamond Helio 200 bindings
    Voile Objective BC skis (light, and fishscales are awesome for traversey terrain) 
        OR Movement Race Pro series skis
    Hyperlite 4400 or 5400 pack (I have never had trouble loading everything into a 4400)
    Outdoor Research Deviator Hoody (lightweight, warm camp, ski and drysuit layer)
    Outdoor Research Echo Sun hoody
    Patagonia Dual Aspect Bibs
    Salomon ultralight pertex rain shell
    Scarpa Alien RS boot
    
        Disclaimer: I have associations with Alpacka Raft and Aquabound. The above list has been assembled and field tested thoroughly by me with the singular goal of maximizing performance, durability, comfort and minimizing weight on these types of expeditions.

Timing and Route Selection

    Any Skiraft route is likely to be a competing challenge between flows that are high enough (or channel that is open) and continuity of snowpack with the particular goal of eliminating mileage on foot.  Carrying a full ski and packraft kit can be a crushing overload of ultralight gear.

Allen Ottman crossing the Bremner Dunes

    The most valuable planning tool that I've employed on every single skiraft route is the semi-real time imagery available for free from the ESA's Sentinel Satellites. You can watch snowpack coverage change through time, and it's often just high enough resolution to see if river channel has broken up or is still frozen over. In most locations, this imagery is available day-of and updates every 3-4 days.

    I have been successful in using this tool to identify the historical windows (back to 2016) when river channel is open and snowpack is closest to takeout/hike transitions, or in identifying clean transition points where we can ski down a covered north facing slope to reach a dry south facing slope.

    Or, if you're talented or lucky you can skip the intermediate foot travel transition and go straight from river to snow or snow to river.

 









2 comments:

  1. Thanks for writing, I'm loving the recent posts. Hopefully this helps increase the number of practitioners beyond a handful. Although it seems like the finite conditions will always be limiter vs. bikerafting, which can be done in the lowlands basically anytime

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    Replies
    1. Yes there are plenty of good reasons to explain the limited numbers. But, despite this sport being Uber gear intensive and physically difficult, it's striking to me that almost everyone I've suckered into doing it has come back to do it again.

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